El Camino - The Way #24

Waking early the next morning - we were approached by two peregrinas (lady pilgrims) who engaged us in a discussion about sharing a taxi with them from our albergue to the City of Leon.  It seems the taxi fare was about €100 - the one lady needed to definitely take the taxi but could not afford the fare on her own - with four of us - only €25 each.  My birthday was the next day - I had mentioned to Arlene that I wanted to celebrate my birthday in a larger city so we said yes - it eliminated two days of walking through a flat boring area - ended up in Leon after a two hour ride.  In Lent - even when we give up certain things - celebrating birthdays - special occasions - need to continue.  

Waiting for the taxi 

Entering Leon - the taxi dropped us off in a central business district - the first thing we noticed was another public restroom similar to the one in Burgos.  Since we were going to stay two or three days - we set off looking for a regular hostel since the pilgrim hostels did not allow you to stay multiple days in a row.  It was more expensive - private room with private toilet and shower and hot water - worth the price.  As simple as we try to keep things during Lent - basic needs should not be ignored - not necessary to make Lent unbearable - Satan will see to that.

W/C - Public Toilet 

Since we had a secure private room in the hostel we could divest ourselves of our back packs - free to roam around Leon to see the local Cathedral and look for a suitable place for my birthday celebration.  Since Leon is a major city on the Camino - pilgrim menu - available for dinner - very reasonable dinner price €9 each including a full bottle of wine per person.  Cheers! 

Cathedral de Santa Maria

We had plenty of time to tour the cathedral a few times as well as the  immediate area.  Lots of enjoyable sightseeing - places to sit - pray - reflect. 

Cathedral Map 

Our first day in Leon we saw a couple heading to celebrate their wedding - from what we have witnessed - wedding parties tend to be primarily immediate family and friends - not the large gatherings we see in the States 

Groom & Bride - Just Married - Congratulations

Arlene in her hiking skirt 

The plazas were people only plazas - no cars allowed - large areas 

for people to browse - mingle - socialize 

Public Mime Not a Ghost

This is something that we have seen in many countries - people dress themselves

as characters - stand in the public squares - like statues - collecting donations

In Lent we try to remove our masks - reveal who we really are 

Interesting apartment building - looks like a pleasant place

 to watch the world walk by your window

My beautiful Camino buddy - vino tinto y vino blanco y tapas

Another day coming to an end late mid-day too early for dinner we stop for wine and snacks - a fruitful day - we helped a lady get to Leon when she couldn't afford the taxi fare - we jumped ahead two days - found a place to stay and prepare for my birthday tomorrow.  As I have mentioned - in Lent - on our journey - we need to be prepared for various opportunities that may present themselves to us - being willing to make modifications on our journey - open to whatever God may send our way.  

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #23

Isn't it awesome when you have a good night's sleep  - makes the prospects of the next day look great.  In Lent when we have been struggling - then things start to suddenly come together - easier to pray - sit in silence - your spirit starts to come alive - future looks much better.  Same on Camino - rough days - easy days - all days lead to better days.  Refreshed by yesterday's shorter day - we head out - open to whatever we experience today.

Up and ready to walk more - pray more - experience more

This looks familiar - blacktop - dirt - gravel - up hill - down hill - sort of like a song stuck in your head. And it goes on and on.... Hail Mary - Glory Be - Our Father - 

Looking at the mountains 

A new version of the Camino signs - markers - as we walk through different areas - variety is the spice of life - correct? 

Anybody lose a shoe? 

Walking this path we came upon the Abandoned Ruins of the Monastery at San Anton - there is a small albergue there - no lights - no heat - no hot water - wash your clothes in the stream nearby - very rustic - we move on - too soon to stop. 

San Anton Ruins 

When the monastery was occupied the monks would leave fresh baked bread for the pilgrims who would pass by in these two spaces - thank you Lord for those who help nourish us with food - words from heaven - that encourage us to continue on our journey

Fresh Bread Long Ago 

Camino Map - You Are Here 

We had been warned to look out for people on the Camino who might be looking to take advantage of us - so when these two women appeared from out of nowhere we were cautious - they just wanted to say hello and offer us some hard candy - did not ask for money - wished us well - so who were they - Camino angels?

Buen Camino 

As we continued on we came to a sign directing off the trail - heading us into this field - road construction ahead 

Head This Way Please 

Over the hills - through the fields - we come upon a place to rest and get a drink 

Un Refresco y Bocadillo Por Favor 

A quick lunch break and back on the trail heading towards the open fields again.  Every day - in Lent - time busy with daily life - taking breaks to refresh ourselves spiritually 

A Very Old Camino Way Marker 

Following an old Roman road heading into the mountains - a challenge ahead 

Modern bridge over creek mostly dry 

The Challenge - an extreme incline for the next kilometer - a 12 degree incline - 

even those on bikes ended up walking up this stretch 

The incline begins pace slows down drastically - sun is bright - hot 

Top of the hill finally - see if you can see the trail we just walked

Quite often in Lent - when we don't know where we are heading - we have just as difficult time trying to see where we have come from.  Where did we start - when did we start - are we in the middle of our journey - lost - Lord guide me I pray 

At the top of this hill dozens of pilgrims - walkers - bikers - gathered dripping wet with perspiration - temperature close to 100F - sharing space under a lean to - avoiding the sun - drinking lots of water - regaining our breath - preparing for the next challenge just ahead 

Everyone excited - happy - celebrating - conquering - 

one of the biggest challenges on the Camino 

We are the champions - conquering our own fears - Thank You Lord 

Ready for the next immediate challenge 

Downhill - an 18 degree decline - remember down hills are worse on your knees - ankles - stay erect - don't stumble.  It looks like the cyclists have a free ride here - hopefully they see the tight turn up ahead that will send them flying down a 12 foot drop if they don't pay attention

Walking down about a 45 minute walk - cycling - 10 minutes at best 

Flat terrain again getting close to stopping for the day 

There it is 

Todays trek was vey hot - clothes dripping wet - looking for the showers - laundry - getting into dry clothes - sitting outside drinking wine - eating some tapas until dinner time. Most albergues have wi-fi here very difficult getting a connection - no email - no connection with those back home.  Even when we think we have all that we need - often something lacking.  For the past year - COVID19 has provided all of us with challenges - through these time - Jesus I Trust in You 

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #22

In this third week of Lent many may ask themselves - am I doing this correctly - what have I accomplished - where am I going? After our previous night on the Camino I think we were asking ourselves this same thing. We had walked all day - a very hot sweaty day - stopped at the suggested village - only to discover that three alburgues was about one too little - a lot more pilgrims than could be accommodated - one lonely restaurant that didn't serve dinner until 7:30 PM at night and by 6:30 PM already booked full twice over. That was an exhausting day - a trying night - sleeping in a dusty gymnasium - one bathroom - did I mention a cold water shower?   Still - God did bless us with a peaceful nights sleep - considering the rude early morning shuffling of the 5:00 AM early risers - shinning their flashlights into our eyes - morning arrived on time - we - the normal pilgrims - waking refreshed. Once we had our things gathered - back on the trail. At this point we were starting to see more pilgrims - peregrinos (Spanish) - on the trail. A quick stop for our morning cafe con leche y tostada - and on our way.  Today we met our first peregrino walking the trail backwards - often pilgrims will walk to Santiago - then walk the trail back home - especially those who live on the trail.

Hello - can I burro your trekking buddy?

This was a first for us - Arlene's face shows her surprise as this older peregrino with his donkey walked by.  A quick buen camino - exchanged by both and on we continued. 

Buenas dias senor - Buen Camino 

Hot - Dry - Lonely - Never Ending Trail 

**You can see today's trail wind to the top of  the mountains in the center of this photo. 

This stretch of the Camino known for its heat - dry - brown expanse of nothing - fields harvested - laying dormant - definitely a sweat zone.  Only thing to do - pray - pray again - continuously.  During our Lenten journey - many days will feel like that - never ending - tired - perhaps boring - the same old - same old - yet - we continue - in faith we stick with it - somewhere - to an end. 

Surprise monument to Saint Brigida

Saint Brigida Statue in Alcove 

Pressing on at the 11 Kilometer mark we find an albergue - serving a second breakfast of cafe con leche y tostada - looking around - we decide to make it a short day - this place a palace compared to last night's gymnasium.  11 Kilometers not a long trek - but there was a fair amount of uphill - besides the laundry facilities excellent - the latte only €2 - who can beat that. Bocadillas for lunch - taking a nap - waiting for dinner - tonight another full bottle of wine

Welcome to our albergue - they even carried our back packs upstairs for us 

Possibly the only day that we stopped this early - yesterday was rough - spotting this oasis - the promise of a real bunk for the night - we treated ourselves to this short day - no guilt.  On our Lenten journey - we often stretch ourselves too thin - make ourselves depressed that we failed to do all planned - occasionally we stop dead in our tracks - take a day of respite - no good reason to push ourselves too hard - this really is not life or death - after all - we are trying - right?

Washing station - laundry tubs - hot water - drying racks - excellent

A few other pilgrims obviously had the same idea - plenty of space to take advantage - of free time - time to relax

Arlene enjoying the free time 

The photo below is the same shown above the Saint Brigida photo - long walk - climbing up the mountain - recharging our emotional batteries -  mentally preparing for that long up hill that we will tackle tomorrow. 

A short enjoyable day - plenty of time to relax - pray - meet a few pilgrims - share some stories.  Our Lenten journey should always allow time for unscheduled interruptions - especially when it involves sharing our experience with others.  You never know when you might meet Jesus in a stranger - break bread in an out of the way place.

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #21

Back on  the trail - carrying all our things - my blister still with me - Arlene - bandaged knee - compared to everything else - minor.  The path out of Burgos had us walking on pavement alongside a running stream of water - very peaceful - morning prayers - Thank you God - for all your blessings - things we might have missed if it hadn't made some sound.  Walking west towards  the sun - always in our face - thank you for sunglasses and wide brim hats. Thank you for the lightweight puffy jackets to keep us comfortable in the chilly mornings and that these compact down so small they fit in their own pocket.  Every morning thanks for the blessings we often miss.  In Lent - thank you for this time to pause - reflect - take notice of all the good things that are around us - even during a pandemic - God is so good. 

Bubbling stream - very peaceful - heading back to the dirt path that is the Camino 

Camino Angels

As we were walking we noticed our shadows in front of us - were those really shadows - or perhaps our Camino angels.

A field of sunflowers 

Harvested Field - Lots of Brown - Hot 

We are not alone - Other pilgrims - not many 

Village Fountain - Do Not Drink The Water 

We were warned to drink only bottled water since our digestive system would not be happy with the local water - good advise whenever you travel 

Local chapel - time to pray - heading into a very dry - hot area 

Typical Camino trail - gravel - dirt - dry - prayer time 

Stacking stones - religious cult?  - We added our own - time to pray 

More downhill - knees did not like 

**Notice the trail goes down and to the right of the pilgrim ahead into the mountains

 in the back ground 

The mornings were usually chilly for the first hour - then puffys came off compacted down - stuffed into our packs - within the next hour - very hot - our ultra lightweight t-shirts - shorts very damp from perspiration - all would be washed when we found our albergue for the day - shower - put on our second set that were dry inside our packs - after a shower - wash the sweaty ones - pray they would be dry by the morning. Everything we wore - carried - was hi-tech quick drying clothes - except for our wool socks - those would be pinned onto our pack and air dried the next morning as we walked. Luckily it did not rain except the last day so we saw many pilgrims with clothing pinned to  their backpacks - rule #1 - keep your feet dry.

Community Gymnasium

Local gymnasium used for over flow - pilgrims - cots - concrete floor - one bathroom - cold water.  When we entered this town the Camino was getting more crowded.  Most of the time it was only the two of us - occasionally joined by a few others - those who walked very fast quickly left us - those who walked slower - left behind.  Here the three albergues were filled up - next albergue - 11 Kilometers away - we had to stop - no choice.  Happily they opened a local gym with cots for the night.  Unfortunately - one shower - cold water only - not fun - one restaurant - completely filled.  They did have a small local grocery so we purchased a few items - two small bottles of wine with twist off caps and that was dinner.  More prayers - God bless us - please!  We did sleep well surprisingly - In Lent we pray that everyday is productive - that we end our day with a good sleep.  

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #20

Day #3 in Burgos - like it or not - returning to the Camino path tomorrow - hopefully my blister has had enough time to heal - even though Burgos is a very nice town - we are not on vacation - we are on pilgrimage - a big difference.  It is interesting that at restaurants when you ask for the menu - you get a card with everything they serve - in Northern Spain - on Camino - when you request Menu - that specifies a specific meal for pilgrims - three courses - soup - salad - fish - meat - desert - coffee - bread - wine.  When you requested - menu - you got all three courses plus a full bottle of wine for each person including your ice cream and coffee. Because many pilgrims drank their full bottle - lots of snoring at night. 

Peregrina Arlene con vino tinto 

On pilgrimage with beautiful weather - we fell in love with outdoor dining.  Pilgrim Menu about €7 to €9 - Dinner at 7:30 PM  in bed by 9:30 PM - Albergue doors locked at 10:00 PM  This casual day minimized walking - time to sit - pray - reflect - prepare for the next day. 

Pilgrim Menu Board

Non pilgrims - locals - tourists - benefit from the very reasonable prices at restaurants.  In a large part the pilgrims from around the world fuel the economy for Northern Spain in the small villages.  Even though most locals did not speak English - with minimal Spanish - very easy to get around Spain - most people were very friendly - even though tipping is not normal in Spain - nobody ever refused a tip when offered especially with a big smile and friendly muchas gracias.  That added to the spirituality of the pilgrimage - helping to add to their economy.

Europe is loaded with statues every where you go - even on Camino 

in very small villages - always statues.

Public Square - Gathering place for peregrinos - locals 

Public waking area - places to sit - relax - pray - meditate - thinking about tomorrow

Our last day in Burgos - tomorrow loaded with back pack - trekking poles - we continue onwards to Santiago.  The first ten days of pilgrimage completed - looking forward to another twenty or so.  Yesterday - Third Sunday of Lent - half way of our Lenten journey - twenty more days of prayers - reading - reflection on our present journey.  How are you doing - any blisters yet?

Deacon Dale