El Camino - The Way #28

When we were making our plans in 2013 to walk the Camino  - I had a discussion with one of my sisters in regards to a critique that Americans tend to walk in very long strides whereas Europeans tend to walk in shorter strides. She had just returned from an European vacation on which many of the Americans had difficulty walking up hills. The tour host had tried to teach them that taking small short steps would enable them to walk farther with less effort. Armed with that information - she thought we could use that knowledge on the Camino. The reality is that when walking the Camino - one will naturally employ the complete range available to any walker. One fact that we learned in training for the Camino and in designing our "Camino de los Santos" is that the average person's stride is approximately 30 inches which translates to 2000 steps in a mile. Using that number it is easy to calculate that the entire Camino of 500 miles translates into one million steps!  Some people are big on tracking steps - miles - kilometers - whatever distance they cover when walking - cycling - swimming.  Many in Lent track their number of rosaries - chaplets - hours in adoration - Mases attended - as markers along  their Lenten journey.  Whatever metric you do - do not use - is perfectly fine - helping you to track your success - progress during these 40 days.  Anything you can do to encourage - inspire you to stay the journey is just fine.  Leaving San Javier - a good night's sleep - we once again headed out into the unknown.  In Lent - baby steps - just fine as long as you continue to advance on your journey. 

San Javier community area - goodbye

First things first on any journey - nutrition - at home in Lent - breakfast - on the 

Camino - the first breakfast - looking for cafe con leche y tostada

Ask and you shall receive - bars serving coffee

and toast early in the morning - a must

 

 Heading out of Astorga - the Senda - a planned 

walking path away from the blacktop - fairly flat - easy

Only 249 Km to go - about two-thirds completed

For most of our pilgrimage - we were alone - occasionally meeting others who may 

have stayed with us or just passed us by - walking at a faster pace - not shadows

not bad at all - if you don't mind the constant sun and heat 

For sale sign - needs renovations - what we would tear down - in Europe - many consider a starting point.   Lent is sort of like that for some - having intended to start a devotion - quickly discarded - not know if they should restart - or start fresh - considering there are 40 days - always - when days are left - time to resume or start over - never say never - Jesus stands at your side waiting for you. 

The Cowboy Bar - Not much to look at - famous stopping point  for food and drink 

On any journey - always forks in  the road - take the high road or the low

Does not make a difference - Jesus - always with you which ever you chose 

Time to end the day - 5 hours walking - feet tired 

Time to visit the local church - say some prayers - a relatively easy walk today - with no major challenges - Tomorrow the highest point on the Camino and the Cruz de Ferro - The Iron Cross.  Another afternoon of drinks - snacks - dinner and bedtime.  As we end this day - final thoughts about Lent - time for reflection.

Deacon Dale 

El Camino- The Way #27

Our albergue from the night previously was interesting in that instead of regular bunk beds - they had triple layer bunks. They were too high for us old pilgrims to attempt - stayed in the lower level bunks.   They were setup with two sets of three layer bunks in an alcove. Although English - in one form or another - is the universal language - on the Camino there is a large number of people who are only able to communicate through a language not native to them. On numerous occasions I had to use my limited Spanish with a peregrino whose native tongue was neither English or Spanish - yet we were able to understand each other and communicate - both with limited Spanish - a testament to people seeking to communicate with others.  In Lent frequently we may be invited to share a spiritual experience that is foreign to us - joining others who are comfortable in that devotion - opens us to new prayer experiences.  

Albergue In Villadangos del Paramo

At the albergue In Villadangos del Paramo - I had to use my one year of college French to talk with a fellow from France - he did not speak either English or Spanish -  - I was afraid I would not understand - but was able to learn from him that he was traveling with his wife - that they had started their Camino in Le Puy, France and they lived in the southern part of France.  A Camino surprise - God blessing both of us.  Being open to God and what he has in store for us - countless blessing come forth. 

             Pureun - "Blue" From Korea

This same morning as we left the alburgue we also met a young woman from Korea - Pureun - who said I should call her "Blue" since her name in Korean translates into blue in English.  I asked her why she would use that - as I did not find her name difficult to pronounce - but - obviously she had other experiences to prove otherwise. She apologized for her bad English - but I had no problem learning that she was traveling alone - was a communication student who had decided not to continue at university because it was very expensive - and that she was coping with a tender knee issue - similar to Arlene's.  God - again opening doors when you let Him.

John and Sharon 

Along with Purean - we met a couple from California who were heading to Astorga with us - no language issue with them. 

Museum of the Camino 

Pilgrim statues at the museum 

Tonight's alburgue San Javier 

Dormitory style bunk beds 

Since our stopping time was about 4:00 PM we decided to stop here for the day - select our beds - drop off our back packs and spend a few hours wandering - three hours before dinner. 

Public plaza Astorga

Old Bell Tower

Santa Maria Cathedral 

Time to stop - say a few prayers - meditation time 

Afternoon Coke y tapas - saving the wine for dinner

Relaxing at a table we bumped into John and Sharon from California and shared afternoon snacks and decided to find a place for dinner together.  Dinner was great - lots of fun - went a little late when we realized that it was 10:00 PM and we remembered that the albergues close at that time - said a quick goodbye - raced off to find our albergue - in a panic we arrived about twenty minutes after ten - hostess calmed our nerves when she said - we don't lock up until 10:30 PM - thank God for small blessings - again.  We retired for the evening - saying a few extra prayers.  Lent provides plenty of these God moments - touching the Divine when we least expect.  When we open our eyes to the possibilities of what can be - wonderful things happen. 

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #26

Birthday time over - back on the trail today - blister or not we keep on towards our goal - this pilgrim statue reminding us why we are in Spain - our first priority - our pilgrimage.  Just as the current issue with COVID has derailed many of our plans - has also been a disruption with our Lenten journey - worrying about being tested - trying to register for the vaccine - considering the side affects - safety - to vaccinate - or not - for many - that is the question - drawing our attention away from prayers - quiet time - God

Statue outside Casa de los Botines 

As we left Leon we passed by the five star Parador®  - originally a monastery founded in the twelfth century to provide lodging for the pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.  It later became the headquarters of the Order of Saint James whose soldiers provided protection for the pilgrims.  The original building was demolished in the sixteenth century and the construction of the present building, on the original site, commenced in 1515.  This is one of the most beautiful Renaissance building in Spain. The carvings depicting religious and historical events on the 100 meter long facade are worthy of note.  As a hotel - featured in the movie The Way. 

The Parador

Statue of Pilgrim in front of the Parador leaning against 

the base of a cross - with sandals off

Close by the Parador we crossed another babbling stream - peaceful 

Rio Bernesga

As if there aren't enough natural mountains - hills and valleys in northern Spain we came

 upon a man made hill to take walkers over some streets and other obstacles

man made hill

Finally - the hills behind us - we came to a flat stretch - coincidence? praying a rosary at the time.  In Lent so many opportunities to say a rosary or chaplet on a moments notice - dotting the day with prayer 

Time for a rest 

The entire pilgrimage we have been walking near - alongside - over the roads along the Camino trail - now a short stretch under - in Lent do you always take the high road - open to diversions?

Tunnel under highway 

Then there were rocks - rubble 

Dry rocks 

Walking along the highway 

Most of the Camino tracks through the bare countryside - often through farm fields - with permission of the farmers - just stay on the trail - do not damage crops 

Alternate transportation - yes ahead

Village time 

Break time  food & drink 

Back on the trail - more and more - again 

At this point we were tired of the sun - heat - feet getting tired-  Albergue some where ahead - ready for a shower - vino y tapas - sleep.  

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #25

Our second day in Leon - celebrating my birthday - a second chance to allow my blister to heal - stubborn little guy - a good night sleep in a private room - no snoring - no people wandering in the middle of the night - no flashlights in our eyes early in the morning - a very good birthday present indeed.  Any day in Lent when things go your way - no interruptions with your prayer time - quiet time is a good day - one to be appreciated - little blessing from God - always a gift. 

Posing for Arlene - Public gazebo in the square 

On this special rest day - no backpack to carry around - instead a very light bag to carry a few necessities - a tourist day for my birthday - looking for a suitable place to get our morning cafe con leche and a pastry - not normally found on the Camino trail. 

Bingo - a pastry shop

Back to our starting point to view more statues and fountains

Popular Round-a-bout

In Burgos we had found a bench with a pilgrim statue

Here in Leon a similar bench - combination with a statue of Anton Gaudi the architect  

Arlene and Gaudi  

Discussing plans with Gaudi for Familia Sagrada in Barcelona 

We found it interesting while wandering that we would find an American restaurant - at least one named Hollywood - Continually throughout Lent surprises seem to pop up almost daily - make one's Lenten journey more interesting - what has surprised you? 

Authentic American?  Did not go in 

Our Hostel Orejas for our stay in Leon

Luckily our hostel was centrally located for all our wandering while in Leon - close to everywhere we wanted to visit - easy to find at night - right on the Camino trail - so ends another day of pilgrimage

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #24

Waking early the next morning - we were approached by two peregrinas (lady pilgrims) who engaged us in a discussion about sharing a taxi with them from our albergue to the City of Leon.  It seems the taxi fare was about €100 - the one lady needed to definitely take the taxi but could not afford the fare on her own - with four of us - only €25 each.  My birthday was the next day - I had mentioned to Arlene that I wanted to celebrate my birthday in a larger city so we said yes - it eliminated two days of walking through a flat boring area - ended up in Leon after a two hour ride.  In Lent - even when we give up certain things - celebrating birthdays - special occasions - need to continue.  

Waiting for the taxi 

Entering Leon - the taxi dropped us off in a central business district - the first thing we noticed was another public restroom similar to the one in Burgos.  Since we were going to stay two or three days - we set off looking for a regular hostel since the pilgrim hostels did not allow you to stay multiple days in a row.  It was more expensive - private room with private toilet and shower and hot water - worth the price.  As simple as we try to keep things during Lent - basic needs should not be ignored - not necessary to make Lent unbearable - Satan will see to that.

W/C - Public Toilet 

Since we had a secure private room in the hostel we could divest ourselves of our back packs - free to roam around Leon to see the local Cathedral and look for a suitable place for my birthday celebration.  Since Leon is a major city on the Camino - pilgrim menu - available for dinner - very reasonable dinner price €9 each including a full bottle of wine per person.  Cheers! 

Cathedral de Santa Maria

We had plenty of time to tour the cathedral a few times as well as the  immediate area.  Lots of enjoyable sightseeing - places to sit - pray - reflect. 

Cathedral Map 

Our first day in Leon we saw a couple heading to celebrate their wedding - from what we have witnessed - wedding parties tend to be primarily immediate family and friends - not the large gatherings we see in the States 

Groom & Bride - Just Married - Congratulations

Arlene in her hiking skirt 

The plazas were people only plazas - no cars allowed - large areas 

for people to browse - mingle - socialize 

Public Mime Not a Ghost

This is something that we have seen in many countries - people dress themselves

as characters - stand in the public squares - like statues - collecting donations

In Lent we try to remove our masks - reveal who we really are 

Interesting apartment building - looks like a pleasant place

 to watch the world walk by your window

My beautiful Camino buddy - vino tinto y vino blanco y tapas

Another day coming to an end late mid-day too early for dinner we stop for wine and snacks - a fruitful day - we helped a lady get to Leon when she couldn't afford the taxi fare - we jumped ahead two days - found a place to stay and prepare for my birthday tomorrow.  As I have mentioned - in Lent - on our journey - we need to be prepared for various opportunities that may present themselves to us - being willing to make modifications on our journey - open to whatever God may send our way.  

Deacon Dale