El Camino - The Way #22

In this third week of Lent many may ask themselves - am I doing this correctly - what have I accomplished - where am I going? After our previous night on the Camino I think we were asking ourselves this same thing. We had walked all day - a very hot sweaty day - stopped at the suggested village - only to discover that three alburgues was about one too little - a lot more pilgrims than could be accommodated - one lonely restaurant that didn't serve dinner until 7:30 PM at night and by 6:30 PM already booked full twice over. That was an exhausting day - a trying night - sleeping in a dusty gymnasium - one bathroom - did I mention a cold water shower?   Still - God did bless us with a peaceful nights sleep - considering the rude early morning shuffling of the 5:00 AM early risers - shinning their flashlights into our eyes - morning arrived on time - we - the normal pilgrims - waking refreshed. Once we had our things gathered - back on the trail. At this point we were starting to see more pilgrims - peregrinos (Spanish) - on the trail. A quick stop for our morning cafe con leche y tostada - and on our way.  Today we met our first peregrino walking the trail backwards - often pilgrims will walk to Santiago - then walk the trail back home - especially those who live on the trail.

Hello - can I burro your trekking buddy?

This was a first for us - Arlene's face shows her surprise as this older peregrino with his donkey walked by.  A quick buen camino - exchanged by both and on we continued. 

Buenas dias senor - Buen Camino 

Hot - Dry - Lonely - Never Ending Trail 

**You can see today's trail wind to the top of  the mountains in the center of this photo. 

This stretch of the Camino known for its heat - dry - brown expanse of nothing - fields harvested - laying dormant - definitely a sweat zone.  Only thing to do - pray - pray again - continuously.  During our Lenten journey - many days will feel like that - never ending - tired - perhaps boring - the same old - same old - yet - we continue - in faith we stick with it - somewhere - to an end. 

Surprise monument to Saint Brigida

Saint Brigida Statue in Alcove 

Pressing on at the 11 Kilometer mark we find an albergue - serving a second breakfast of cafe con leche y tostada - looking around - we decide to make it a short day - this place a palace compared to last night's gymnasium.  11 Kilometers not a long trek - but there was a fair amount of uphill - besides the laundry facilities excellent - the latte only €2 - who can beat that. Bocadillas for lunch - taking a nap - waiting for dinner - tonight another full bottle of wine

Welcome to our albergue - they even carried our back packs upstairs for us 

Possibly the only day that we stopped this early - yesterday was rough - spotting this oasis - the promise of a real bunk for the night - we treated ourselves to this short day - no guilt.  On our Lenten journey - we often stretch ourselves too thin - make ourselves depressed that we failed to do all planned - occasionally we stop dead in our tracks - take a day of respite - no good reason to push ourselves too hard - this really is not life or death - after all - we are trying - right?

Washing station - laundry tubs - hot water - drying racks - excellent

A few other pilgrims obviously had the same idea - plenty of space to take advantage - of free time - time to relax

Arlene enjoying the free time 

The photo below is the same shown above the Saint Brigida photo - long walk - climbing up the mountain - recharging our emotional batteries -  mentally preparing for that long up hill that we will tackle tomorrow. 

A short enjoyable day - plenty of time to relax - pray - meet a few pilgrims - share some stories.  Our Lenten journey should always allow time for unscheduled interruptions - especially when it involves sharing our experience with others.  You never know when you might meet Jesus in a stranger - break bread in an out of the way place.

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #21

Back on  the trail - carrying all our things - my blister still with me - Arlene - bandaged knee - compared to everything else - minor.  The path out of Burgos had us walking on pavement alongside a running stream of water - very peaceful - morning prayers - Thank you God - for all your blessings - things we might have missed if it hadn't made some sound.  Walking west towards  the sun - always in our face - thank you for sunglasses and wide brim hats. Thank you for the lightweight puffy jackets to keep us comfortable in the chilly mornings and that these compact down so small they fit in their own pocket.  Every morning thanks for the blessings we often miss.  In Lent - thank you for this time to pause - reflect - take notice of all the good things that are around us - even during a pandemic - God is so good. 

Bubbling stream - very peaceful - heading back to the dirt path that is the Camino 

Camino Angels

As we were walking we noticed our shadows in front of us - were those really shadows - or perhaps our Camino angels.

A field of sunflowers 

Harvested Field - Lots of Brown - Hot 

We are not alone - Other pilgrims - not many 

Village Fountain - Do Not Drink The Water 

We were warned to drink only bottled water since our digestive system would not be happy with the local water - good advise whenever you travel 

Local chapel - time to pray - heading into a very dry - hot area 

Typical Camino trail - gravel - dirt - dry - prayer time 

Stacking stones - religious cult?  - We added our own - time to pray 

More downhill - knees did not like 

**Notice the trail goes down and to the right of the pilgrim ahead into the mountains

 in the back ground 

The mornings were usually chilly for the first hour - then puffys came off compacted down - stuffed into our packs - within the next hour - very hot - our ultra lightweight t-shirts - shorts very damp from perspiration - all would be washed when we found our albergue for the day - shower - put on our second set that were dry inside our packs - after a shower - wash the sweaty ones - pray they would be dry by the morning. Everything we wore - carried - was hi-tech quick drying clothes - except for our wool socks - those would be pinned onto our pack and air dried the next morning as we walked. Luckily it did not rain except the last day so we saw many pilgrims with clothing pinned to  their backpacks - rule #1 - keep your feet dry.

Community Gymnasium

Local gymnasium used for over flow - pilgrims - cots - concrete floor - one bathroom - cold water.  When we entered this town the Camino was getting more crowded.  Most of the time it was only the two of us - occasionally joined by a few others - those who walked very fast quickly left us - those who walked slower - left behind.  Here the three albergues were filled up - next albergue - 11 Kilometers away - we had to stop - no choice.  Happily they opened a local gym with cots for the night.  Unfortunately - one shower - cold water only - not fun - one restaurant - completely filled.  They did have a small local grocery so we purchased a few items - two small bottles of wine with twist off caps and that was dinner.  More prayers - God bless us - please!  We did sleep well surprisingly - In Lent we pray that everyday is productive - that we end our day with a good sleep.  

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #20

Day #3 in Burgos - like it or not - returning to the Camino path tomorrow - hopefully my blister has had enough time to heal - even though Burgos is a very nice town - we are not on vacation - we are on pilgrimage - a big difference.  It is interesting that at restaurants when you ask for the menu - you get a card with everything they serve - in Northern Spain - on Camino - when you request Menu - that specifies a specific meal for pilgrims - three courses - soup - salad - fish - meat - desert - coffee - bread - wine.  When you requested - menu - you got all three courses plus a full bottle of wine for each person including your ice cream and coffee. Because many pilgrims drank their full bottle - lots of snoring at night. 

Peregrina Arlene con vino tinto 

On pilgrimage with beautiful weather - we fell in love with outdoor dining.  Pilgrim Menu about €7 to €9 - Dinner at 7:30 PM  in bed by 9:30 PM - Albergue doors locked at 10:00 PM  This casual day minimized walking - time to sit - pray - reflect - prepare for the next day. 

Pilgrim Menu Board

Non pilgrims - locals - tourists - benefit from the very reasonable prices at restaurants.  In a large part the pilgrims from around the world fuel the economy for Northern Spain in the small villages.  Even though most locals did not speak English - with minimal Spanish - very easy to get around Spain - most people were very friendly - even though tipping is not normal in Spain - nobody ever refused a tip when offered especially with a big smile and friendly muchas gracias.  That added to the spirituality of the pilgrimage - helping to add to their economy.

Europe is loaded with statues every where you go - even on Camino 

in very small villages - always statues.

Public Square - Gathering place for peregrinos - locals 

Public waking area - places to sit - relax - pray - meditate - thinking about tomorrow

Our last day in Burgos - tomorrow loaded with back pack - trekking poles - we continue onwards to Santiago.  The first ten days of pilgrimage completed - looking forward to another twenty or so.  Yesterday - Third Sunday of Lent - half way of our Lenten journey - twenty more days of prayers - reading - reflection on our present journey.  How are you doing - any blisters yet?

Deacon Dale  

El Camino - The Way #19

Day #2 in Burgos - Our Swedish peregrinos getting ready to get the replacement battery badly needed so they can continue their pilgrimage - without their electric bicycles - walking the Camino not possible.  We left them here and wished them well - inspired by their can do attitude.  So often during Lent - roadblocks along the Lenten path - health - job issues - pop up that makes our spiritual journey difficult.  As long as these are only pauses - not a complete stop - we can always pick up where we left off - recharge our batteries - continue on.

Foldable Electric Bicycle 

Trying to minimize how much walking we did while healing in Burgos - still taking advantage of these rest days  - keeping our minds focused on pilgrimage.  Surprise - we came across this sightseeing train - took us all around Burgos - saved my feet from unnecessary walking. 

Choo Choo 

Another pilgrim sculpture in front of Cathedral

Very Large Pilgrims - In Spain Peregrinos Highly Regarded

Back On Our Feet 

El Cid 

W/C Water Closet - Public Toilet - Yes a Toilet

Heading Back to our hostel

Our second day - resting in Burgos - no kilometers walked today - walking in sandals - left hiking shoes at hostel - getting fresh air on our feet.  Spent a fair amount of time visiting the Cathedral - praying - always praying on Camino - always during Lent.

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #18

September 1, 2013 - 6 days into our Camino experience - time to cry - uncle - my blister is getting the best of me - time to take a break and give my foot a rest from the daily trekking.  Burgos, Spain is a good sized city where we stopped a few days to see if I could a handle on my blister.  It was a big enough city that we could use the time to discover what Burgos had for visitors. Lord - we come before you seeking time to rest - time to heal - very appropriate even this Lent. 

Not Too Shabby Waiting Area in the Community Hostel 

Here we met a few pilgrims - one lady who had traveled from Montana - against her doctor's advice - already scheduled for knee surgery.  Here waiting for a bus to help return her home - wishing she had listened to her doctor.  Any pilgrimage - best to take seriously any - all advice. 

Welcome to Burgos 

We also met an older couple in their 80s who were biking the Camino with battery powered bikes - the one had a defective battery - had taken the bus here waiting for a replacement battery from Sweden their home bike dealer.  Very friendly pilgrims.  Inspired by their age and energy - positive attitude.  Often in Lent when we feel like we are failing - need to seek those who can encourage us to continue. 

The entrance gate towards the Cathedral at Burgos 

Walking through the gate - the first view of the Burgos Cathedral - very impressive - little did we know that we would return here 4 years later in 2017 while leading a pilgrimage to Fatima - Lourdes.  Was privileged to preach here during Holy Mass - adding to my list of giving a homily at an international church - a special blessing. 

Burgos Cathedral

One of many side altars

Besides all the altars and other religious artifacts -  dozens of paintings.  One special one - Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (c. 1040 – 1099), better known as El Cid - a Castilian nobleman and undefeated military leader in medieval Spain - during the golden age of the Templars.

El Cid 

Outside the Cathedral area - a large garden area to walk - wander - sit and talk - pray - reflect - rest your sore feet.  We visited this area a number of times while in Burgos - minutes away from our hostel. 

Burgos garden area near the Cathedral 

Very near a running stream - very peaceful - very prayerful.  In Lent special blessings when a restful place is discovered - helps to make prayer time special.

Deacon Dale 

El Camino - The Way #17

On this walking pilgrimage we quickly settled into a daily routine - sleep as late as possible - too many early walkers who disturbed our sleep - 5:00 AM - lights still out - rustling noises as they dress and repack their back packs in the dark - some with flashlights or hiking head lamps trying to gather all their belongings - too often those lights shining into the eyes of those trying to get more sleep - the noise from shuffling all their stuff also making it difficult to sleep. We had to leave the albergues by 10:00 AM at the latest - that allowed the staff time to clean the facility and bunk beds.  Most days we were up and ready to leave by 7:30 AM which still allowed us plenty of walking time as well as stopping early enough to get a bed.  Some people reserved ahead - not knowing how difficult each day would be we played our day by ear and using a guide book to know where the hostels were located we had a good idea when to stop - time of day - how bad my blisters hurt. We learned very early that those who walked until dark often found the albergues filled and no beds available.  Taking that into consideration - time of day - distance walked - making sure we had a bed - had us stopping by 4:30 PM at the latest.  Less people in the albergue a better choice of bed - away from the bathrooms - closer to the windows for a good breeze since they are not air conditioned.  Just because we were back packing did not mean it had to be too rough of an experience.  In Lent as we try to follow our plans for prayer time - accomplishing our daily spiritual exercises - fitting those in with our daily obligations sometimes challenging - so we adapt. we pray.

Back into the country side 

Another beautiful day - although we were prepared for rain - we only had light rain on our last day of pilgrimage.  This section mostly flat - near here we met a couple from the Philippines - during our time in Spain we met pilgrims from 24 countries - all spoke English 

 

A new style Camino marker with yellow arrow & Filipino pilgrims

Random monument dedicated for pilgrims who died while walking 

Pilgrim biking the Camino 

Walking through a grape field - didn't pick any

A Camino directional sign with local history 

Village of Najera - Our albergue for tonight 

This night we experienced semi-private dormitory beds - two bunk beds in a shared room. One of us on top the other got the lower - just to be fair to the others sharing the room

Dormitory bunk beds

Alburgue entrance - 

Must leave boots & trekking poles at entrance to avoid bringing dirt to bed area & pray they are still there in the morning 

We ended our day early enough to find a place to eat and wander around the town. The alburgues all lock their doors at 10:00 PM so must be back or you get locked out. The sunsets in Spain - always beautiful - time to pause - give God the praise for another fruitful day. 

 

Beautiful Sunset 

At bedtime - always time for many prayers - prayers of thanksgiving - prayers of praise - intercessory prayers for self - those at home - those also walking the Camino.  In Lent as any other night - final prayers for the day.  

Deacon Dale